Mercato Ballaro, medieval in origin is an animated street market, in Palermo’s gritty Albergheria quarter, strung along Via Ballaro and Piazza del Carmine.

It has been said that there was a market here from Sicily's Muslim days. (A nod to Raleigh Trevelyan's 'The Companion Guide to Sicily’).

Ballaro is centuries old.

The artichokes I ate this spring when in Rome, Palermo and Polizzi Generosa were so good. The earthy flavour of this humble vegetable is simply delicious and the heart so tender.

There are serious artichoke eaters though, who like to squeeze and pull the leaves hard between their teeth to get every last bit.